If you’re anything like me, eyeshadow tends to be a make-up afterthought. Mascara is a must, foundation is a no-brainer and I can’t live without bronzer, but eyeshadow just seems too tricky.
That was until I met Stephanie Nasr.
Stephanie knows eyeshadow better than a reality star knows her best photographic angle and she’s given Wedded Wonderland an insider’s guide to applying the right textures and colours of shadow.
WW: What are the basic rules to follow?
Stephanie Nasr: Once you learn and understand the basic rules of eye shadow, you can master a range of eye shadow makeup styles with of course a little practice and fun.
First off, the most important step is to apply an eyelid base, which performs as an eyelid primer and eye shadow base; use a small amount of primer and concealer. This will moisturize the eyelids, preparing for a smoother, cease-free and of course longer lasting eye makeup.
When choosing eye shadow colours, divide them into three categories: light, intermediate and dark colours as shown in the provided diagram. Typically, these colours would be of a colour gradation and textures.
LIGHT – Always start using a nice fluffy brush at the outer corner of the eyes and taking it inwards to the inner lid and outwards to the brow bone. I recommend nude, soft browns and pink tones for this part depending on the specific style you’re after.
INTERMEDIATE – Use the intermediate colour starting on the outer corners of the eye and taking it to the eyes inwards. Take it slightly towards the brow bone as shown in the above diagram. Be careful with this task as depending on the colour, you wouldn’t want to start at the brow bone, always start the brush on the outer corner and take it from there! By doing this, you will naturally create the blending of the light and intermediate colours. It will amaze you to foresee the colours created amongst the two.
DARK – If you decide to use a third and darker colour, apply this once again starting on the outer corner of the eye. It’s optional to take this dark and/or intermediate colour to the lash line. It will come through practice to envision what exact technique could make your eyes look larger or smaller.
ADDITIONAL EFFECTS – Once you master this, you are able to add a certain amount of shimmer eye shadow on top of the inner lid. Adding a slight highlight to the brow bone could brighten up the eyes. A touch of highlight on the inner corner of your eye could also open up your eyes.
WW: What can determine the best shadow colours you should be using?
Stephanie Nasr: Ultimately, it comes down to the specific style you’re after. Personally, I don’t entirely believe in strict colour selection rules depending on the eye colour, hair or skin tone. I trust that it also comes down to the techniques. If you master the rules of applying eye shadows, you can experiment with any colours you like.
I strongly recommend owning a colour wheel. Generally, those with hazel, green and blue eyes should select complementary colours which are the on the opposite sides of the colour wheel. This would enhance the iris of your eyes, creating a striking outcome. If you want to bring out the colours of your eyes, the below list are common rules to achieve a striking effect.
GREEN – Earthy tones including brown shades entice attention to green eyes. These shades are great because they can be of a natural style or darkened for a smoky style. Red shades including maroon, apricot, peach and burgundy also beautifully enhances green eyes.
HAZEL- As hazel consist of few colours, it combines well with many eye shadow colours. Blue colours and neutral colours including the brown shades are a great colour selection for hazel eyes.
BLUE – Earthy tones including grays, brown and beige shades pair well with blue eyes. Red undertones such as orange, coral and purple are a great choice.
BROWN – From neutral colours including brown to gold and every other colour in the rainbow, works amazingly well with brown eyes. Purple or teal colours would make your brown eyes pop out most.
Once again, you can wear whatever colour you like, as makeup is art. If you want your eye colour to stand out most, choose the complementary colours.
WW: What different kinds of shadows are there?
Stephanie Nasr: Eye shadows range from matte to shimmery textures. In regards to fine lines and wrinkles amongst the eyelid zone, avoid shimmery colours and textures and select eye shadows that consist of great moist textures.
WW: When should these different kinds of shadows be used?
Stephanie Nasr: Once again, this depends on what style you are after for a particular occasion. If you were attending a casual event, a matte eye shadow would be subtler compared to a shimmer eye shadow. But there is no stopping you!
WW: Should you wear coloured shadow on your wedding day?
Stephanie Nasr: Whether it’s neutral or cool and vibrant eye shadow colours, your wedding day face should reflect your usual style but with an enhancement. A lot of my clients ask about my opinion on brides wearing red lipstick on their big day, I say, if you think about wearing lipstick or actually wear a bold lipstick at least once a week, then yes! I strongly recommend a makeup trial, that’s if you want to try a unique style just so you can be sure and not take a risk on the day. Once again, get married in colours that you will be most comfortable with.
Stephanie Nasr combines her two loves – make up and architecture – to bring out the natural beauty in each of her clients. Her artistic skills and perfectionism guarantees a happy client and flawless application each time. Stephanie’s strong passion for beauty and individualism is evident in her work.